On to Amsterdam and Rotterdam

I had a night at the Amsterdam Schipol Airport (yeah with points!), and then I took the train to Rotterdam to visit Yolanda, a new Couch Surfer, so I was her first guest. She actually lives outside of the actual city, and rarely goes there, so we stayed in her neighborhood. (We had toured the city on the barge trip, so that was fine.) It was a good chance to rest up before I got into Amsterdam!
We did take a delightful walk so I did get to enjoy some of the area around.

This means you can't do something without a permit; the effing part made me chuckle!

Yolanda on our walk

Small petting zoo loved by the kids!

TOO pretty not to do the close-up!!

We did take a delightful walk so I did get to enjoy some of the area around.

Joanna and Janey Come to Visit!

Walking into Sintra

Joanna, a new friend from Nice by way of Cornwall (you have heard about her before!), and her friend Janey from New Zealand came to spend three nights with me in Graca. (Joanna had been here before, as her daughter Bethany is teaching English in Lisbon.)
They arrived on April 29th, and we all had a delicious dinner at a neighborhood beef (primarily) restaurant recommended by the flat owner. Claudia, who was returning to Brazil the next day, did join us also! We were all to meet at 7, but I didn't see Joanna and Janey when they arrived at the Metro stop, and they went to the restaurant anyhow. I waited until 8 and went (starving!) to the restaurant. Luckily I had made reservations, and there they were! While they were getting concerned as to my whereabouts, they had ordered! ! It was funny!

On Wednesday Isobel had invited us to go to Sintra; Joanna had met her before, and had introduced us. Isobel brought along Carmo, a teacher friend, to join our field trip! Sintra is very close to Lisbon, a 45 minute car trip, and a popular destination for tourists. It was very crowded, so we really just walked around and did not visit any of the tourist sights. We walked by an interesting sculpture exhibit, as we went into the town.

NOT part of the exhibit, but interesting nonetheless!!

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(Getting there early in the morning would be a good idea for another time.) But it was fun to see it! We drove by the Pena Palace, which was the summer palace for royalty. It looked mobbed and would have wonderful views, as it overlooks the city.

It was time for lunch, and luckily Isobel knew a good-not touristy place to eat-on the way out of town. I had "Portuguese" meatballs made of pork, two vegetable choices, and mashed potatoes seasoned with nutmeg. That I had never had before and hope when I get home I remember to put nutmeg in when I make mashed potatoes!!
Then, I could not pass on the delicious looking chocolate cake (pictured below). It had chocolate mousse between the two layers. Incredibly tasty. As I write this, I would like another piece!

Janey, Joanna, Isobel, Carmo

 On our way home, we went into Capo da Roca, the most eastern point in Europe. It was quite crowded and very windy and fun to see!

How is your hair? Capo da Roca

The next day we took the train to Cascais, another busy tourist town. We really just all wanted to be outside to enjoy the lovely weather. (Good thing as I sit in my wool slacks and sweater here in Rotterdam!)
Leaving the train station, I spotted these canned nuts in the vending machine (below)...add this to my list of "new" things I've spotted on this trip (and been amused by!)!!

Joanna, Janey, Bethany

Two men made this; they left a container for contributions!

After lunch we walked back to Estoril to catch the train.

Those are only ???????! Made me laugh. Too bad I could not really capture it. Usually it would show next stop.

Great signage on the train tells you of upcoming stops!!

And, well, that was three weeks and two nights in Lisbon, a very interesting city. Friday morning I took a cab to the airport, and I was off to Holland.

Visiting the "Must See" Gulbenkian Museum....

Manet's "Boy Blowing Bubbles"

Calouste Gulbenkian was an Armenian exile who went to Portugal and became very wealthy in the oil industry. He left all his money and his art collection to Portugal. Peter and I had time only to see the modern section of this museum in a totally separate building. This museum heads the list of Must See places in Lisbon.
It was a wonderful sunny Sunday afternoon when I returned to see the traditional section. There were lots of family groups inside and outside in the gardens and wonderful grounds. The museum is not that large, but had some wonderful European pieces, as well as some works by John Singer Sargent and Mary Cassatt. There was also a room devoted to Lalique's works.

della Robbia work

I love all things Venetian!!

Spotted as I searched for the museum

There was a Lego exhibit here.  (I didn't enter).

On my way out of the Metro stop, there was a woman who was confused about how to get out. I motioned her to follow me through after I swiped my ticket at the kiosk. Her name was Claudia, and she was from Brazil. I invited me to come with me, as I was returning to the Barrio-Alto Hotel for a glass of wine. She had  arrived the day before with her friend who was sick. She came with me and loved the view. We had a pleasant chat, and I invited her to join us for dinner on Tuesday.

Come on back to hear about Joanna (from Nice and Cornwall) and her friend Janey's visit.Thanks....

Some Portugal Insight...Thanks to my Couchsurfing Friends!

 Recently I met Isobel and Leonor. Isobel is a retired English teacher, who has been translating novels for twenty years. She is currently working on Ken Follett's triology and did some of the Harry Potter books. We sat outside for coffee and then walked around the Chiado-Baixo neighborhood, before we went to her house for dinner. As a perk from her teaching days, she has a lovely flat which she did have to pay to renovate, which can be passed along to her son. However, he has moved to Australia and may stay there! Isobel also has a violinist daughter, who has gone to Australia with her musician husband also. It was impossible to find jobs in Portugal for them.

Then I met Leonor, who is a widow and child psychologist. We met at a mall at the site of Expo 98, which was an interesting structure and grounds. After she left, I went to see the movie "Hotel Budapest" at the mall. All US TV and movies ARE in English with Portuguese sub-titles. She loves India! (Nisha, I told her she should visit you in Pena!) She also has two children-one with a job, and the other unemployed.

Looking out the front entrance to the Metro stop....

Each of the working children of these two women happen to be engineers. However, both of them are contract jobs. The one was moved to Australia by the hiring company, as he has a specialty.

Now THIS economy in Portugal is VERY difficult-really abysmal!...Leonor told me how restaurants "hire" people for three days to "train" them with no pay, and they are told not to come back after 3 days, and they bring in more people for three days, etc....The "minimum wage" is totally ignored!

I am very grateful these two women shared this with me to help me understand what people are up against here!

VERY Important Elements of Portugal's History: Fado and the Carnation Revolution

I stopped by the Saturday market and had not realized when Peter and I were there how huge it was...still was not tempted, however!

Famous painting in the museum

I kept walking down the hill to visit the neighborhood and the Fado Museum. Fado is uniquely Portuguese folk music...somewhat melancholy from what I have been told.  (My Portuguese is VERY limited, even though Peter left me with a "cheat sheet"!) My Couch surfing friends here have told me that it is enjoying a resurgence with the younger generation of singers. There seem to be Fado bars all over the place...still more churches I would guess!Here is a youtube link to one song.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HB406iGofo

Guitar for fado is unique.

 Ana Sofia Varela, the singer on this youtube clip, was in the museum concert along with a standard guitar and a Portuguese guitar.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUoFZcB_Pbk

I stayed for the short concert (four songs) after my tour.

April 25, 1974 was the date of the Carnation Revolution, when the dictatorship was overcome. The "bloodless coup" ended the reign of terror. This year's celebration was its 40th anniversary. There were signs all over the city, and lots of celebrations-both the night of the 24th, as well as all day on the 25th. After my visit to the Fado Museum,I walked into the Placa da Comerica, which was the first place Peter and I had visited, and enjoyed the festivities.

Many carried or wore red carnations.

Various military equipment and soldiers around the square

Very nice band concert!

Thanks for traveling with me!