Tuesday, August 13, 2013

My Last Sunday in Paris...

Sunday was a fine day in Paris, and I had three-maybe four-things on my "to do" list. Pascale had given me a pass to see Cite de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine (architecture and heritage), which I had visited before and thoroughly enjoyed. She had also told me about the Sevres
Museum, which is the National Ceramics Museum, and that intrigued me from my pottery classes at the Danforth. Third, I had toyed with revisiting the American Church, after the interesting experience when I spent three weeks cat-sitting for Snagglepuss. (I went to a viewing of "Babette's Feast", and we had to bring either chocolate or wine.) There was a third flea market I thought about visiting! And in the back of my mind I also wanted to walk about the Left Bank some! I knew that this was my last day in Paris-at least for now!!
So while I started out for the flea market, I quickly scrapped that and went to the Sevres Museum.
Work by Hector Guimard
It was a quiet little museum with pottery from all periods, as well as a contemporary display with works from Germany, UK, even the US.


Some works were so big I could only imagine how huge the kilns must have been to fire them!
I especially liked a work by Robert Winokur from Philadelphia, titled "Asparagus Holds up the House".
He has done a number of these, and I wondered if it started because he knew a child who hated or loved asparagus??



Then where would I go?

It was too nice a day to be inside, and I really also wanted to revisit the Luxembourg Gardens....


I had also envisioned a pleasant lunch outside somewhere, but that became a quick ham and cheese baguette in the Luxembourg Garden overlooking the fountain, and I was off to enjoy the delightful day and a DELICIOUS gelato!!

Now perhaps you have noticed that I have been in Paris nearly two weeks with not a mention of visiting a church! I've visited Notre Dame and Sacred Coeur previously, so they weren't on my list. Thus, as I wandered past a little church almost diagonally across the way from Notre Dame, I went in for short, pleasant visit and to escape the hordes of tourists. I didn't even write down the name, but it was peaceful and cool and a place to sit, before I went back outside! 

So it is au revoir to Paris for now....Thanks for traveling with me!!

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Of the Paris Plage and Flea Markets...




For you reality show watchers....Pascale watches a French reality show translated as “Love in the Meadows”; it is about French farmers-men and women who are looking for companions. It has been on for seven years (only in the summer). I watched it with her the other night. Hmm…well, I am not a big reality show person under any circumstances, but it was interesting, although she did have to explain most everything to me. (Some things were obvious by the actions.)

Yesterday I made plans to meet Frederique
for lunch. She was my delightful couch surfing hostess, who took me to Nuit Blanche several years ago. I was to meet her by the Theatre Chatelet, but she could not find a place to park, so she picked me up, and we drove to the Ile de France. Picture us at one of the myriad
of little sidewalk cafes, where we had lunch and visited. I had the ham quiche and a tasty salad. Afterwards we walked around and had a famous Berthillon ice cream-very delicious, but really expensive for what you get. GOOD for the Paris experience, however,I guess.

I wanted to see the Paris “Plage” or the “beach”
which they set up along the Seine. In places they do bring in some sand, where some kids were playing. In other places they just had beach chairs where people were reading. There was even a portable library
Building on the left is the library.
so people could take out books. In one area they had a picture display of how the Seine has changed with copies of famous Impressionist prints.
We walked along and enjoyed the Seine and the lovely scenes of Paris in summer.

 

On my home, I stopped into buy a ticket to Giverny for Monday. It was to be an 11 minute wait as opposed to 30 minutes earlier in the morning. Alex helped me, and when I asked about the best place to buy a Tram ticket, he actually walked me over to the gate outside of this ticket area!!

Today I decided to visit some of the famous Paris flea markets, which was another first. The Lonely Planet had highlighted three; I got to two of them. Supposedly the largest in the world is at Porte de Clignancourt, which was my first stop. Well, I may have missed something but ALL I saw was rows and rows of clothes and stuff, new and cheap.
Would have brought a hat home for Peter, if it were the end of my trip!
This says OFFICIAL U.S.MARSHALL ATHLETICS
I wandered around for maybe 45 minutes, before I headed to Porte


LUCKILY I am here for along time, or this would have had to come home with me!
de Vanves. This is the smallest of the three, but definitely more interesting, although many were closing as I arrived at 2:30. (Book had said it would be open 9-6.) But then the book also said it was the “friendliest of the lot”? I bought nothing-yeah!!

Thanks for traveling along with me, and I hope you will leave your comments!!

Friday, August 9, 2013

The Delight of Fontainebleau...

For those of you who thought I came over here with the little suitcase, as I HAD planned, I DID NOT!! The main reason I was planning to do that was because when I bought my Paris-Nice flight on Ryan Air, I did not indicate that I would be checking a bag. Well, FINALLY about 3AM one morning, I came to my senses and realized I HAD TO HAVE some more clothes. So I will pay dearly when I check in, but at least I will have more clothing than you might have envisioned. (Unfortunately when I was packing, and it was SO HOT, I did manage to forget some warmer clothing which I WILL BE NEEDING!!) I had planned all along to ask Melissa to send me some heavier clothing, since I am not staying in one place.

A rainy Wednesday kept me house-bound until the weather cleared a bit so I could walk to "upper" Suresnes for a few groceries. I am not sure why I get such a kick out of checking out different grocery stores-maybe it goes back to my days at Gillette! But I am always fascinated at the different products and systems I see-not just in France! My timing was perfect, because I was no sooner back in the house, and the heavens opened up again!
Thursday I was out early-7:45ish-to start my trek to Fontainebleau. On previous trips to Paris, I guess going there seemed too far or "complicated", so this was my first trip. The Paris public transportation system is famous for its efficiency! However, there was a point in my early morning efforts, as I was wandering around Gare Sainte Lazare station that I was reminded of Charlie on the MTA. I had taken the train from Suresnes, where I changed to a line that got me to Chatelet, where I changed to get to Gare de Lyon. Once there I had great directions from my trusty Lonely Planet book so I knew exactly where to go to buy tickets for the train to Fontainebleau. However, exactly how to get to the train departure was not too clear! I did feel like I was going around in circles-because I WAS, but finally got close....However, the sign said Voie (track) 1, but I didn't see a track 1. Well, duh, the 1 was really an I....Once I figured that out, I was on the right track (Oops-no pun intended!) The train ticket included the round trip bus ride that got us from the train station to and from Fontainebleau.
When I first bought my ticket for Fontainebleau, there were no audioguides. However, I decided to check back to see if any had been turned in, and I got one. I was off on what turned out to be a great day.
First built in 1137, various kings and queens lived at Fontainebleau as well as Napoleon and Napoleon III. After Patton and the allied forces liberated Fontainebleau in 1944, part of it served as the Allied and then NATO headquarters until 1965. It was really fascinating, and I found the entire day very interesting. (One interesting bit of trivia- people used the term "powder room", because originally they used  powder to cover what bodily smells one can only imagine!)
There were some tour groups, but it didn't seem too crowded; temperature was perfect as well! Before I left, I walked around some of the four ornate gardens.
 (I had some technical "difficulties", as my camera battery didn't last very long, so most of my pictures are on the Blackberry, which I am having trouble downloading.)
Fontainebleau is in a very pleasant little town, but when I found the restaurant recommended in Lonely Planet, it had just closed. Lest you think I skipped a meal, I did find a ham and cheese special to keep myself going for the trip back to Paris! It was a thoroughly enjoyable day! 

Napoleon's Vest

Napoleon's Shoes (if you cannot read the plate)




Tuesday, August 6, 2013

More Days of Exploring Paris and the Environs....

There were several days in the 90's last week, so I had a good excuse to just catch up on sleep and get acclimated. My greatest activity was to walk into town-which is down a decent enough hill-to visit the town and different grocery stores and then walk back up this hill that is steeper on return.
Saturday Pascale found some very interesting activities for us to explore. At 12:30 there was a lecture about Hector Guimand and Villa Berthe, La Hublotiere, built in 1896. It was all in French, so my comprehension was non-existent....His work did, however, remind me of Gaudi's in Barcelona! Many of the Metro signs were designed by Guimand.
Nonetheless, it was fun to see the other people and the tour guide,
who studies at the Louvre. The purplish-blue wisteria hanging from the front of the house was nearly past, but I was intrigued to see how her outfit "matched" with the purple tinted sunglasses and the purple plaid sundress she was wearing.
On the way home we stopped at a wonderful bakery (boulangerie)-why don't we have these?? We each chose one for lunch when we got home.
At 5:3 0 that afternoon she had arranged for her Aunt Jeanine to meet us at Villette. As described on wikipedia, "The park was designed by Bernard Tschumi, a French architect of Swiss origin, who built it from 1984 to 1987 on the site of the huge Parisian abattoirs (slaughterhouses) and the national wholesale meat market, as part of an urban redevelopment project. The slaughterhouses, built in 1867 on the instructions of Napoléon III, had been cleared away and relocated in 1974. Tschumi won a major design competition in 1982–83 for the park, and he sought the opinions of the deconstructionist philosopher Jacques Derrida in the preparation of his design proposal."
In one of the halls there was a two storied display designed to show the relation of music to films. For example, it talked about how different producers selected various composers and stayed with them thoughout their careers. It was quite interesting with various displays where people could listen to different music. All the signage was in French; it was quite crowded and incredibly hot-especially on the first level. The second level, cooler with less people, had displays where people could pick one of maybe 40 songs from movies, and they played over the whole area. Fun to hear the Beatles and "As Time Goes By" and wonderful "pieces",(as my father would have said) into the hall as opposed to headphones, which was the case for most of the displays.
It turned out that Jeanine had fallen asleep, so we met her later for dinner at a Thai restaurant just beneath her high rise. Jeanine taught piano for many years and now sometimes is teaching Pascale's niece. I was happy to have met her. She wanted us to go up to her apartment, as she wanted to tell us some more interesting stories about family, but it was too late by that time! One story she told was about her 72 year old niece in Los Angeles,who is reported to have had an affair with Cary Grant. Well, that did pique my interest!!

Sunday was going to be hot, so we went to the very impressive Puteaux,http://puteaux.fr/Loisirs/Vie-sportive/Piscine-du-Palais-des-sports ,one of the 37 public Paris swimming pools. (DO check out the link if you have a minute!) So we joined the other 1300 people there and had a fun day! They have a 50 meter outdoor pool with a 25 meter indoor pool plus smaller pools for the kids. It was amazingly organized and clean. 9euro price tag is a bit hefty for an entry fee, but well worth it! (Unfortunately my pictures have fallen into the black hole of picture downloads with Windows 8!) It is an impressive complex.

Monday was my first "typical " tourist day, as I took the train to Rouen to learn more about the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. (I really wanted to check out the restaurant where Julia Childs, as a bride, had her first French meal. Time prevented any lengthy meals, as I did get a later than usual start.)
I followed the travel book directions and made the TI (Tourist Information office) my first stop. I picked up a map and started to figure out where I really was. After a quick ham and cheese sandwich (jambon et fromage), I was off to see the wonderful Impressionist exhibit at the Beaux Arts Museum-many Monets, Renoirs, Sisleys. Right around the corner was the Ceramic Museum, which was great (for the wannabe potter) with some most intriguing pieces. It had been sprinkling a bit, and-wimp that I am without my umbrella-I decided to head back to the train station. On the way, I passed the Joan of Arc Tower, where she had been held before her trial. So I went in and climbed the 104 steps to stop at each floor to learn more about her. Probably the most interesting thing is that Mark Twain in twelve years wrote a book about her called Personal Recollections of Joan of Arc under a pseudonym http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_Recollections_of_Joan_of_Arc  and considered it his greatest work! As I was exiting the Tower, it was pouring, but I managed not to get drenched on theway to the train.

Today I reconnected with Marie Makdessi,
whom I had met in 2005 on the train to Metz. She is now married and due to have her daughter in a month. When she first came to France from Lebanon to study, she was going to stay a year. Since then she realized how much she likes it here, has married a Parisian who teaches high school in Paris, and will probably live all her life her in Paris. She is a psychologist who speaks four languages and works with autistic children. She suggested the
Opera House,
Male costume from Swan Lake
which was a great idea, as I had only driven by. There was an English tour later in the day,so we walked around on our own. It is a spectacular building, and the foyer rivals a small Versailles Hall of Mirrors.
We had a delicious lunch in a Greek restaurant, and we went off hoping perhaps to go to Giverny, but that looks like it won't work. GREAT DAY! Merci, Marie!!

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Of ALL Things Technology-well Almost

For those of you who would like to comment, just hit the word COMMENT, and a box will open to give you plenty of chance to do so!! AND I would love to hear from you!!

Sign on bus yesterday which I could not upload!
 It has occurred to me as I search for one cord or another that I guess I should have said when people asked who was coming with me, I should have said,  "my phones, my laptop, my Kindle, my GPS, and ALL the miscellaneous chargers"!! THIS IS NOT COMPLAINING, AS YOU KNOW!!

  As you probably much of Europe is on vacation for most or part of August.  On yesterday's walk, I passed this Ford showroom, which is on holiday for 3 weeks.


I think that one of the trickiest things about traveling is knowing where my stuff is!! Is the shampoo in this corner of  the suitcase, for example. Travel gurus like Rick Steves, tell you to separate your different credit cards and ATM cards, so IF you are robbed, they won't get everything-HOPEFULLY! (Well, hopefully, of course, I won't get robbed again. Once when my friend Carol and I at arrived at deGaulle trying to buy Metro passes, my backpack was open, but I had separated things so they didn't get THAT much!) Hence, I am in the process of setting up new systems to keep track of these things!

This morning Pascale gave me a ride to a huge mall at La Defense, as I was very keen to get my iphone working. She had a 9AM meeting, so I had plenty of time to observe everyone bustling to work,as there are lots of office buildings around as well.
I decided it was time to find an ATM to make a withdrawal. I have no idea why, but I am always somewhat dubious before I first withdraw money in a foreign country. (Once I had a problem, so I always have two or more ATM cards so I do have a back-up plan!) My worry was in vain, as I easily made the withdrawal- WHEW!

I had purchased an iphone before I left because I needed an unlocked phone. (Please don't ask...I really don't get it.) I have kept my Blackberry to keep my existing cell phone number, but that means I am paying roughly ATT $70 per month plus $30 per month for 30 minutes of phone time and $10 per month for 50 texts. (I've no plans to use it much!) I had heard different things from people about phone options here which assured me that the phone service should be cheaper! The company called Free sounded best, but when I tried to find their "store" at the mall, I was told they only have one store in Paris and weren't that good for data transmission. (I didn't ask what that really meant because I had no interest in leaving this huge mall without accomplishing my mission!) My next stop was the Apple store, but I was told that they didn't have a French sim card for calls and data for my phone(??). They send me to the Phone House. NOPE! Phone House sent me to SFR. NOPE!! And, of course, they were looking at me in that quizzical fashion that the searching one never understands. FINALLY I saw a sign for Bouygues Telecom. THEY did have a sim card, and I could get full service with them! There were two options,but only one for me. IF I had a French credit card, I could have bought one plan. Not an option! So for 60 euros, I have three months of unlimited calls and texts in Europe, unlimited texts and data plan, so I can get my emails on the phone. At the end of three months, I can get another 3 months for 45 euros. WHEW!!!

The temperature easily hit 95* today, so I decided to head home after the Mall experience. One couple who came to dinner last night brought their daughter's rabbit, so Pascale is taking care of it for a few days. The temperature by his cage was 35* which converts to 95*! Dinner
was delicious; we ate outside on Pascale's balcony. They all speak very good English, although much of the conversation was in French. That only served to show me how limited my French is!

Tomorrow I hope to go into Paris in spite of the heat. Au revoir!!

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Final Details AND-FINALLY-Departure!!

...and the evolving dream continues. It has been a pretty wild month or so….

My house has been rented to a Brandeis grad student coming from France! Aline arrives 8/21; her husband Olivier will be arriving several days later with Paolo (6), Avril (4), and Andy (1). The location, of course, is perfect, as my house is 1.4 miles from the Brandeis entrance. The street? “NOT so much!”

Aline and I first spoke one Sunday afternoon maybe six weeks ago. That night, her friend Joanne, who lives about a mile away, came to see the house. She told Aline that the house was fine (great?), but there are no sidewalks and definitely not a neighborhood! And because route 128 is across the street, the yard is noisy, but the house is not, and that always surprises people.

When the price had dropped, she emailed me and said that now they could maybe buy another car, and the house would work for them. We went through the traditional process-application, talk with their references, complete and sign the lease, arrange for the various checks like first and last month’s rent complicated by the challenge of them having to send money from France to my bank!

The emails were flying back and forth! Paolo will be in first grade; both Aline and I had to communicate with the school department. I needed to have a form notarized proving that I the landlord was renting to them. Aline will meet with someone to register him when she arrives. Luckily there will be another French boy in the same class with Paolo.

Plus, as luck would have it, we will meet when I am visiting with Pascale. They have invited me to spend the night at her mother’s house in Brioude on August 17th!

In the process of our emails, I had told Aline that I had seen signs of children nearby (this translates to 1-1.5 miles). I also volunteered  to stop by to see if they might have possible playmates for any of Aline’s children. I met five "neighbors” whom I would not have met ! Three families do have young children, and all the mothers were most hospitable and readily gave me their contact info which I passed along to Aline. The fourth person just lives next door-but up a long driveway with prominent NO TRESPASSING SIGNS. (His house is situated up the hill, so we would normally never see each other or have occasion to talk.) No kids there! The fifth stop has the babysitter! They had literally just moved in the day before, and Isabel will be a senior and had done a lot of babysitting in Pittsburgh!

When I return, I have vowed to stop into to say hello to new people in the neighborhood.

The car?? The 2006 Ford Hybrid Escape with 89,000+ miles had to go, too. IF I had found a storage place, it would have cost me probably $100 a month. I won’t belabor the saga of the aforementioned buyer in Burlington who started at $7000; then his offer got to $6000. Time was clearly an issue, but I called Scott in Wayland at State Road Auto Body the morning before I was going to sell my car. Scott has a small car rental place ($25/day), and he ended up buying for $6300. So the Escape joined the “fleet”!

I’m now on a layover in Reykjavik en route to Paris! Ask me how happy I was to just sit at Logan after my friends Pat and Rich dropped me (earlier than I really needed at my request)!  No need to be packing or cleaning out the house…nothing to think about but the experiences before me….

Pascale met me at the Porte Maillot stop on the Airfrance bus route from Charles deGaulle Airport.
Her brother Jerome and his two kids plus a friend were packing to head home, when we arrived. She went of to work; I started the interesting process of "getting organized". (I think one of the real challenges of travel is getting a totally new system to know where all your stuff is!) I finally lay down about 3; Pascale came in at 7, and I misunderstood and thought she said she was going to work, instead of saying she had come home from work! So I thought I had slept through the night! After dinner, we watched a program about a huge party (costumes) celebrating the 400th anniversary of the Versailles. I went to be at 2 and awoke at 9; I feel somewhat oriented to the time difference. Tonight Pascale is having three friends for dinner, and that will be fun!

On a technical note...I am having trouble uploading pictures to this laptop (WIndows 8-GRRRRRRR!!) I get error message saying that Explorer has to close. Any ideas??

Check back when I can tell you about what I am seeing  and learning about Paris.

 
 

Thursday, July 25, 2013

..............Time Is Getting SHORTER!!!!

...and now there are four nights in the old homestead.......GOLLY, GOLLY GOLLY!!!!
Where to start? WOW!!!

THE VISA PROCESS!!  DONE..story to come later...However, see the emails at the bottom.....
HOUSE RENTAL....DONE...another story to come later!
CAR SALE..DONE..DITTO

Whew, so what else is there??
So, my wonderful friend Joan kindly offered to come and spend two days helping me...when she left the things to be done were things which only I can do!!!! THANKS, Joan!!

Now I am caught up in the final throes of packing and the other details so I will be out the door Monday morning for la belle France...

Do, check back in...I will be better at updating my blog.......I would love you to travel along with me!!








De 
Envoyé : vendredi 12 juillet 2013 10:00
À : visas.boston-fslt@diplomatie.gouv.fr
Objet : Visa application BOS20131750004
Importance : Haute
I UNDERSTAND THAT A DECISION HAS BEEN REACHED REGARDSIN MY APPLICATION, BUT I DO NOT KNOW WHERE TO GO TO SEE IF IT HAS BEEN ACCEPTED.
Please advise.
Thank you,
Deborah


That information is only delievered in person. Please come to the Consulate to pick up your passport

Monday - Friday 2:30-3:30

Rachel Sibley
Service des Visas
Consulat général de France à Boston
31 Saint James Avenue, Suite 750
Boston, MA 02116